5/5 - (1 vote)

There are moments in life when time slows down, like molasses dripping from a spoon, and the world becomes oddly quiet—as if it’s waiting for you to notice its beauty. That’s exactly how I felt the first time I stepped into the Rema Resort in Paro, Bhutan. It wasn’t just the altitude that took my breath away. Nestled on a hillside with sweeping views of the valley below and the ever-watchful eyes of the Himalayas towering in the distance, this little gem of a hotel whispered peace in my ears and made my queer heart sing.

An hotel in Paro, Bhutan

Let me be honest: Bhutan wasn’t originally on my radar for a gay getaway. When we talk about LGBTQ+ friendly destinations, we often think of Mykonos, Fire Island, or a beach in Sitges where everyone smells like SPF 50 and mojitos. Bhutan? It felt like a mysterious cousin no one talked about at family dinners—spiritual, conservative, a little hard to reach, and yet, utterly intriguing. But as someone who loves venturing off the beaten (and glittered) path, I took the plunge. And I landed at Rema Resort, heart first.

Rema Resort Paro isn’t flashy. Don’t expect rooftop DJs or rainbow cocktails served in coconut shells. But what it does offer is something rarer and more profound: authenticity. The kind that hugs you softly and makes you feel like you’ve come home after years of wandering. The property is perched just above Paro town, far enough to feel like you’re in a sacred bubble, but close enough to dip into local life with ease. Wooden cottages are spread out like prayers whispered into the mountains, and every corner smells like fresh pine, butter tea, and the hint of incense from the nearby monastery.

“Bhutan doesn’t need a Pride parade to be proud. Sometimes, pride is found in silence, in smiles, and in sacred mountains that see you for who you are.” — The Gay Traveler

The best way for a visit to the Tiger’s Nest

My room overlooked a patchwork of rice fields that shimmered at sunrise. Inside, polished wood met traditional Bhutanese design with an understated elegance I didn’t know I needed. The bed? A dream cloud with blankets thick enough to fight off mountain chills and perhaps hide a lover or two. I remember lying there the first night, listening to the distant bark of village dogs and the occasional wind chime, and thinking, “This… this is what serenity feels like.”

But let’s not pretend I didn’t have some queer apprehensions. Bhutan only decriminalized homosexuality in 2021, and while the law is on our side now, cultural attitudes can take time to evolve. I arrived with curiosity, caution, and a rainbow flag discreetly tucked in my suitcase. Yet, to my surprise, never once did I feel out of place. The staff at Rema treated me with the kind of warm, gentle hospitality that went beyond politeness. They weren’t just tolerant—they were kind. When I mentioned I was traveling solo and dropped a few flamboyant clues about my fabulous life, the manager just smiled knowingly and recommended a scenic spot nearby for “contemplation or a good selfie.” Sir, I see what you did there.

A gay friendly hotel in Bhutan

And that brings me to the gay scene—or should I say, the “gay state of mind” Bhutan offers. There’s no official LGBTQ+ bar in Paro. Don’t expect a drag show or a leather night (unless you count yak leather belts at the market). But what you do find is space. Space to breathe, to reflect, and to love whoever you want in the quiet comfort of nature. Bhutanese culture is rooted in compassion and mindfulness. People may not talk about queerness loudly, but they live with a sense of respect and harmony that made me feel quietly welcome. In fact, I struck up conversations with several young Bhutanese in Paro town who were refreshingly open-minded and curious about the queer world beyond their borders.

Back at Rema, I spent my days exploring the area—hiking to Tiger’s Nest Monastery, eating ema datshi with locals, and pretending I was in a queer version of “Eat, Pray, Love.” By late afternoon, I would return to the resort and wrap myself in a blanket by the window, tea in hand, watching the clouds float across the mountains like they had somewhere fabulous to be. One evening, a surprise bonfire was set up near the terrace, and I ended up sharing stories with a couple from Bangkok and a solo traveler from Berlin. By the end of the night, we were all swapping Instagram handles and promising to visit each other’s cities, our laughter echoing into the valley like some kind of queer anthem.

Your first step to Bhutan

Was Rema Resort a gay hotel? Not in the traditional sense. But it was a place where I could simply be. No judgment. No performative allyship. Just a warm bed, kind faces, and the sense that the universe had cracked open a quiet little corner just for me.

If you’re a queer traveler looking for neon lights and thumping basslines, Paro may not be your scene—yet. But if you’re craving something deeper, slower, and more spiritually satisfying, then Rema Resort might just be your sanctuary. It’s not just a hotel; it’s a moment. A memory. A place where I found peace, both in the mountains and in myself.

As I zipped up my suitcase on the last morning, the sun casting golden threads across the valley, I realized I wasn’t the same person who had arrived. Bhutan—and Rema—had softened me in all the right ways. And as the taxi pulled away, I whispered a quiet promise to return. Maybe with a boyfriend next time. Or maybe just with my fabulous, fearless self again.